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Who’s still alive (Check in thread)


imaGoodBoyNow

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35 minutes ago, Troll said:

Just checking in...

here's a good clip to pass the quarantine time ...

enjoy

 My days of sitting with priority in the lineup were gone. That's up to the young guns now. Some of my most memorable waves was lighthouse Cape Hatteras 8 to 10' 4 to 6 second tube rides for about 2 hours before the wind blew ut out. Death wave was. In Costa Rico at Escons 21 or so feet. Rode the foam ball out. Was invited to surf 25 to 30 foot waves but graciously bowed out. That was at age 48. Good memories.

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1 hour ago, CODBEARD said:

Steamer Lane SC for me.. been many many years though.. waves on East Coast suck but you don't battle seaweed lol

 

Image result for steamer lane santa cruz

got to surf Steamers a loooonng time ago LOL. Fun stuff 😁

And you're right...East coast waves suck....until they don't...🙄

Good to see another waterman around at least  👍

I posted the last clip because the camera work was so good....

Imagine if we had that type of digital photography back in the day 🤔

 

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26 minutes ago, CODBEARD said:

man we were too poor to have cameras let alone a video camcorder lol.. My board had multiple dings covered with duct tape. We Couldn't afford sexwax we had candle wax we took from Ronnie's moms place ( she liked to burn allot of candles, wonder why)..My mom burned incense haha

I used to get paid while I surfed.....

$25 for a 9 hour shift   😲

poor me 🤣

(confused? guarded the surfing beach in Seaside for years LOL)

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1 hour ago, CODBEARD said:

when its on it's very very crowded...If your not a local they will cut you off and rudely.lol .. We had a cool semi private spot called the Cove ( a lot of guys didn't like surfing it except us knuckleheads haha) )where we pretty much hung out every day.. Short rides and have to bail before you hit the other cliff but fun and dangerous.. Couple underwater rocks to look out for on shallow break days but what the hell we were young..Had some cool parties in there as well no beach patrol

 

Image result for the cove santa cruz ca

 

If you waited right at the end of the cliff on the right you didn't need to paddle it would shoot you onto the wave..Then hold on for a sketchy and bumpy ride.. I got smashed on the rocks a few times and lived to tell.. lol

surf photo

 

 

Log Cabins just west of Pipeline and Sunset was my spot for 5 years in Hawaii when I was stationed there. Had some crazy days there. Some crazy night surfs also. 

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My home break was 2nd light with dudes like the Slater brothers and Todd Holland. Mike Tabeling was a soul surfer that shredded, and my surf idle. I used to hang at his sisters house and his dad owned Cocoa Beach surf shop. Used to give me new designs to try out. I surfed more than I studied in college. My grandfather started me out at 10 in 1962 and I still get in the water when I can , I'll be 68 this year. It's the best work out just trying to survive in waves over 8 feet for me now... lol. 

 

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20 minutes ago, Cat_Scratch said:

You surfed Log Cabins? Bro, that's real shit right there... 

 

That’s not normal. Those are about a mile out when hit and been there when they were close to that big.  Haha. 6-8 ft were common and some bigger sets would come in and hammer us. The reef can beat you up bad here though. Biggest wave I seen in Hawaii was at Waimea Bay. It’s hard-almost impossible to see these waves when they happen because there’s no parking when that big and the street lines up with onlookers. 
If you’re familiar with North Shore there, Sunset beach is almost all washed away now from waves. 

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1 minute ago, NorCalRuss said:

That’s not normal. Those are about a mile out when hit and been there when they were close to that big.  Haha. 6-8 ft were common and some bigger sets would come in and hammer us. The reef can beat you up bad here though. Biggest wave I seen in Hawaii was at Waimea Bay. It’s hard-almost impossible to see these waves when they happen because there’s no parking when that big and the street lines up with onlookers. 
If you’re familiar with North Shore there, Sunset beach is almost all washed away now from waves. 

Sunset was the prefect big wave right hand break. Used to drool watching it. Not a real fan of Waimea... to many in the line up.

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I have a tee-shirt of Greg Noll getting ready to ride outer reef Pipeline. I hung it up with a few of my favorite big wave guns. When I watched Noll go left at Outer Reef I knew I would never rest until I rode a wave that big... I never did but I got close a few times. I'm  satisfied, and it's the younger generations turn to go big. I watch em and get a good feeling when they get a great ride knowing how they feel.

 

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32 minutes ago, Troll said:

5 years with log cabins as your home break ?

Yeah.... you were poor too  🤣

dayum.🤙

We went there like 6-7 days a week if we weren’t deployed or in field training. You could park on road easily and walk thru a few trees to get there and had nice beach for partying. 
Surfed in Tel Aviv/Eilat a few times and also caught some ripples in Red Sea at herbs beach on rescue boards. 

 

https://magicseaweed.com/photo/303737/album/64c9795065ed9fec49e07a1a7bd87038/

Check out this site. Some of the best pictures you will ever see. You can click on any beach and see info and photos. 
 

AA440F29-03F0-48D5-9EB7-D1CBBD6A5062.jpeg

5DDE985B-5325-4A78-AB05-5A8E573D449A.jpeg

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